Story by Larry Taylor     Photos by Gail Taylor

Bora Bora is said to be among the most romantic islands in the world.

It is located just under an hour’s flight from Papeete, Tahiti. On the plane, when land comes into view, one is struck by the castle-like Mount Otemanu and its lush tropical slopes, blossoming with hibiscus. Also vivid are palm-covered motus (small islets), ringing the coastline like a string of pearls. The perfect beaches, emerald waters – we were anxious to get back.

Upon our return in  February, it had been 27 years since we had honeymooned there in 1984. From above, Bora Bora had looked pretty much the same. Now, on land, we saw lots of structures and cars on busy roads. It was as if the outside world had discovered the charms of this idyllic spot during the ensuing years.

Previously, we had stayed at the Hotel Bora Bora, then the premiere place on the island. This year it had been shut down for refurbishing. In those days, there were only a couple of resorts here. And there was Bloody Mary’s, which had rooms back then, but was best known as an open-air bar and restaurant. We planned to eat there to see how it has held up.

Nowadays many luxury resorts and spas dot the island with their over-water bungalows and thatched roofed villas. This trip we were staying at the Four Seasons Resort, built in 2008 on a motu. Today. six other world-class resorts are also on motus.

Covering 220,000 square meters, the resort is in the midst of a lavish garden, palms dominating colorful flowers and foliage. There are seven villas on land and 100 over-water bungalows; we stayed in one. The bungalows are spaced along many piers throughout the resort.

Each is large with sitting room and bedroom facing the sea. A soaking tub also has a sea view,  as well as a viewing window in the floor facing the water below, to maybe catch a glimpse of a ray gliding by. A large deck outside was perfect for relaxing and having drinks. Our first morning, we were so busy  snorkeling and enjoying the spa, that we missed the buffet breakfast. The host suggested we return to our bungalow and order from room service. We relaxed on deck and within a few minutes a cart pulled up and delivered our eggs–the biggest and freshest we’d ever eaten.  Served with a few pancakes and a platter of tropical fruit, we were, at that moment, truly in paradise.

Noteworthy,  for parents, there is a Kids for all Seasons program and Chill Island for teenagers. These provide many programs and activities, including an array of water sports equipment  (available to all ages). Parents can relax with the children fully occupied.

Snorkeling is one our favorite activities. Since bungalows are located over sandy bottoms, there are no coral and few colorful fish in this section. Close by, however, is a unique lagoon sanctuary  located in the middle of the motu. This spot had been created when an existing lagoon was expanded. Making this area special is a program run by the resort in partnership with Pacific Eco-World Initiative. With this, coral is grafted which, in turn, has created an environment  where coral and tropical fish thrive.

On-site marine biologist Oliver Martin is in charge of this. He explains it this way, “We have created 30 artificial structures and have been grafting coral on these and on the sides of the banks.”

In building the lagoon, a large pipe, some six feet in diameter, was laid connecting the outside ocean with the lagoon. With the new coral blossoming, fish and invertebrates entered through the pipe and found the surroundings so inviting they decided to stay.

There are now about 100 fish species visible. As Martin says, “The idea of this lagoon is to create an ecosystem able to sustain itself. Since most species live in symbiosis, a bit of everything is necessary.”  These inhabitants are now so friendly they gathered around us when we were snorkeling. Some fish which are normally skittish met us “with open gills,” as my wife says.

To give an idea of the array, there were wrasse in several varieties and many parrot fish, along with the popular clowns swimming among anemone. Very amazing, timid squirrel and huge soldier fish could be seen under ledges, while large snappers in groups swam by, surrounded by a wide collection of beautiful butterfly fish.

When we finished snorkeling, a great place to head for was the spa, five minutes from the lagoon.

Wet and cold, we loved going into the elaborate hot tub. With its waterfall and relaxation rods, it was difficult for us to get out.

Among its many awards, the spa was named Best Spa in the World by Virtuoso and Best of the Best spa by Robb Report in 2009. Situated on a high summit, the spa provides views in all directions. As well, its soaring 72-foot ceiling is truly magnificent. Next to it is a beautiful chapel to handle the many weddings here.

The resort is spread out, and it is a pleasurable walk from your bungalow to most places.

But, if it’s too hot or you’re a little lazy, a golf cart-taxi will take you anywhere on the premises. When we called for a ride to dinner, it was usually less than 10 minutes for pickup.

For dining, there is the open-air Tare Nui where we usually had breakfast and lunch. For supper, the Arii Moana featured fine cuisine. Its menu featured the merging of French and Polynesian cooking. The Sunset Restaurant and Bar, on the lagoon, specialized in Asian tapas (small plates), along with Japanese, Vietnamese and Chinese favorites. Since we find all types of Asian cuisine enjoyable, we selected samples of each.

The advantage of dining on the lagoon is fully enjoying the soothing view while sipping a  cocktail. In these moments, one ponders the reasons to fly back to the “madding crowd.” (By the way, we never did get on the resort’s boat to the mainland to visit Bloody Mary’s. (It was too good here.)

For information, (800) 819-5053 or www. fourseasons.com/borabora. For flights, call Air Tahiti Nui, (877) 824-4846 or www.airtahitinui-us.com