The New Vilnius

June, 2005 – Vilnius, Lithuania

On a warm summer day as I strolled across Cathedral Square in Vilnius, Lithuania, I watched in amazement as a smiling man whizzed past the knight-and-horse statue of Gediminas the Great, the smiling man aboard a brand new Segway "human transport," Gediminas in full armor astride a gallant steed. I couldn’t help but smile at the contrast of these two vastly different characters.

I guess you can’t get away from progress, no matter where you are on the planet. This summer I witnessed amazing leaps to a country that not so long ago seemed locked forever “behind the iron curtain.” I have been to Lithuania’s capital city several times and went back to see for myself what had changed.

My trips to Vilnius over the last six years have been wonderful; I've toured centuries-old Trakai castle, stumbled over cobblestone streets in the Old Town, explored exquisite churches and sampled traditional foods. Seeing the birthplace of my grandparents has been an adventure, especially since Vilnius is so different from the U.S.

I had heard there were many changes since the Soviets left in the early ‘90s, but things didn't seem to change much on my trips in 1999 and 2001. On my first visit, there were signs of slow renewal; I noticed fresh paint on many buildings but many others were crumbling and needing repair. My hotel was “Soviet Style” with its tiny bed bolted to the wall, a postage stamp-size bathtub just a bit larger than the bathroom sink and an aging creaky elevator with buttons labeled in Russian. Although I was glad to have the chance to visit, it seemed sad to see such poor conditions and the non-smiling people. Then something big happened...

Lithuania became a part of the EU (European Union) in 2004 and the effect has been dramatic, at least in this capital city.

Going back into the Old Town this year, I found that just about everything has been renovated. The cobblestones are still there, but appear to be replaced with new stones. Each crumbing building in the old city center now gleams with more than just fresh paint; each building is completely renewed. In 1999 it was hard to find that staple of U.S. urban life—a cappucino or a latte—but in 2005 I was amazed by the multitude of coffeeshops that easily rival Starbucks.

Vilnius now has not only shopping malls, but also a "hypermall" with a bowling alley, an ice hockey rink, restaurants, and shop after shop offering a staggering amount of goods.

My new favorite restaurant is Cili Kaimas, a chain serving authentic Lithuanian foods and designed to look like a traditional Lithuanian house—but located in the middle of the mall.

Back to the city center, on the street, I found a vibrant European scene: young people happy and excitedly shopping. Cell phones everywhere. An electronic billboard. Internet cafes filled with school kids playing video games hour after hour.

The first time I came to Vilnius I noted only one invasion of American culture, a McDonald’s on the main street. Now, I was sad to find a large new cinema complex, the Coca-Cola Plaza, the new hip place to watch Hollywood's offerings. Nothing unobtrusive here.

I'm glad to see these changes that bring prosperity to this little country. The residents have surely earned it. Back in the early ‘90s, they were cut off and isolated from the world, just barely surviving. But I can’t help but be wary that in the rush to be like other European urban areas, in the desire to offer all that is trendy and marketable, the old Vilnius may be lost forever.

Photo credits: www.vilnius.lt (Vinius City Municipality website), www.cili.lt, www.forumcinemas.lt, www.segway.com