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Ommegang—The "Procession" in Brussels

Belgium

Article and Photographs by Keith Kellet

In the first week of July, the Belgian capital, Brussels, puts on its party clothes. Those clothes are of the most sumptuous and flamboyant kind because, on the Tuesday and Thursday, the Ommegang is celebrated in the Grand'Place, in the city's baroque main square.

ommegang_1Ommegang means 'a procession' or, literally, a 'walk around'. This 'walkabout' had its beginnings in 1348 when a statue of the Virgin was removed from Antwerp and placed in the chapel of Sablon. The woman who took the statue convinced the people of Antwerp that she had been commanded to do so by Our Lady herself, so they agreed that the statue might stay in Brussels, provided that an appropriate procession was held every year to show the statue to the people.

But, although the parading of the statue still takes place, it's overshadowed by the secular part of the procession, which recalls events of 200 years later.

In 1549, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, visited Brussels. Anxious to impress this powerful potentate, the city's dignitaries, the militia, the guildsmen, and their families all put on their finest...all but matching the splendour of Emperor Charles' court, which included his son and his sisters who, between them, by inheritance or marriage, ruled most of the known world.

ommegang_2Such a good time was had by all, that the burghers of Brussels decided that the event should be re-enacted every year. So, the Emperor's court take their places in the Royal Box, accompanied by bands and their banner-bearing heralds, while the knights, standard-bearers, the craftsmen's Guilds and the military Guilds who defended the city march past, followed by white-robed bearers with the statue of the Virgin. Then, the entertainment starts...the giants Janneken and Mieke lead, followed by the stilt walkers, their fellow-giants, and the dancers and acrobats...and all ends, literally, with a bang as the magician sets off the fireworks and the Arquebusier's Guild set off a deafening feu de joie!