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Vail has always struck me as a place for glitz, glamour, movie stars, and of course, great skiing. But as my wife and I found out on a recent visit, there is another side to this Rocky Mountain town -- a side that offers a variety of family-oriented outdoor activities, world-class scenery, and fantastic bargains on accommodations and dining, especially during the off or value season.
Located a short two-hour drive from Denver, the town of Vail sits snugly against the mountains. There is skiing in the winter and fantastic hiking and biking during the summer and fall. Vail was actually founded as a ski resort in the 1960s by a member of the famous 10th Mountain Division, which had Camp Hale, a training camp located a short distance away.
Modeled after a European-style alpine ski village, Vail is divided into two main areas: Lionshead and Vail Village. These pedestrian centers offer over 300 retail, lodging, and dining opportunities that will fit every budget. During the shoulder or value season from October through November, many restaurants offer half price and two-for-one meals.
Each of the seasons seems to bring out the best of this Bavarian-like community. Spectacular color changes can be seen in the many aspen trees that line the slopes during the fall. Wintertime brings in ski enthusiasts from all over the world. They spend their days perfecting their downhill techniques and their nights in front of a roaring fire in one of the many hotels or restaurant lounges. Spring and summer provide all sorts of activities such as fly-fishing, mountain biking, hot air ballooning, white water rafting, and golfing.
Sightseeing and Activities
My wife and I decided to try the Hummer tour with
Lakota Guides. The open-topped HUM-V is quite an amazing machine. Our tour guide took us to the high country to witness the glorious change of seasons along a steep, winding dirt road. At times it seemed that this vehicle could climb up a wall, and our driver had the ability to raise or lower the tire pressure at will, depending upon the terrain. This is a great tour for anyone who loves nature and
would like the chance to see wildlife up close and in its natural habitat. Although we didn’t see any elk or deer on our trip, my wife did spot a huge owl glaring at her from between the leaves of a tree.
The Colorado Ski Museum in Vail Village is a must see for any ski enthusiast. Here you can get a glimpse of Colorado’s ski history with memorabilia, photographs, and stories all relating to this popular sport.
The Dobson Ice Arena is a 35,000 square-foot, multi-purpose facility that offers recreational skating throughout the summer. This is the largest building of its type on the Western Slope of Colorado.
If you really enjoy teeing off, then Vail is the place for you. There are numerous public and private golf courses in and around the town. The
Cordillera Mountain Course was designed by U.S. Open Champion Hale Irwin and offers 18 holes and 7,413 yards of fun.
If your passion is art, music, or festivals, then this town will not disappoint. Each year Vail hosts the
Vail Arts Festival in June and features over 120 of the best artists in the country. The
Vail Jazz Festival provides six weeks worth of the best jazz music found anywhere. Over 25 performances are held at various venues throughout the community and will delight the senses. In August, the
International Dance Festival serves up classical and contemporary entertainment from the world’s best dancers. The outdoor
Ford Amphitheater is the venue of choice for many events and is a great location for a picnic while enjoying the many cultural events.
Fall and winter offer their own version of fun. Perhaps you have always wanted to try shooting the rapids at least once in your life. Vail has “the most accessible white water rafting in the country” according to Ian Anderson of the Vail Valley Chamber and Tourism Bureau. Hiking and mountain biking are also very popular here with tourists and locals alike. Miles of trails offer excitement or solitude, as you prefer, surrounded by nature’s colorful palette. In fact, Natural Geographic Adventure magazine called mountain biking “Vail’s dirty little secret” for its wonderful trails and 360-degree panoramic views.
As you can imagine, skiing is the top wintertime activity and the readers of Ski Magazine have consistently ranked Vail as the number one ski resort in North America eleven out of the past fifteen years. In case you don’t relish the thought of standing in long lines, we were let in on one local secret: Chair lift six near Golden Peak usually has no waiting for chair lifts and is the fastest route to the back bowls.
Getting Around
The city planners have done a splendid job of organizing public transportation. Vail has the distinction of having the largest free bus route in North America. At any number of strategic locations, you can catch a ride and go to east or west Vail or one of the pedestrian villages. In fact, each bus is equipped with a Global Positioning System that allows passengers to track when a bus might be arriving at a point near them. Incredibly, you can monitor this from your home computer at www.nextbus.com. Now there is no excuse to ever miss the bus. Just log on and wait for your transportation to roll up to your stop.
Where to Stay and Dine
Accommodations abound in Vail. Here you can spend time in a four-star hotel or stay in a friendly, alpine-like lodge for a mere fraction of the cost of a higher-priced property.
The Tivoli Lodge is a modestly-priced, family-run lodge modeled after one of the many ski lodges that you would find in Europe. Located at the base of Vail Mountain, you can literally ski right up to your door. Some of the rooms offer fantastic views of the slopes along with other amenities such as an outdoor pool, hot tubs, a sauna, a warm fireplace, and breakfast.
Photo Courtesy of Sonnenalp Resort
The Sonnenalp Resort of Vail is part of a network of family-owned fine hotels. Sonnenalp is a German expression meaning sun on the mountains and warmth and contentment. This certainly describes this resort, which has won many awards including Conde Nast’s Readers’ Choice Award, AAA’s Four-Diamond Award and three of Travel and Leisure’s 1999 World’s Best Awards. The resort is also a member of the Leading Small Hotels in the World.
The Sonnenalp offers 88 suites and 2 hotel guest rooms with all the amenities you would expect of a top-rated hotel. Custom imported Bavarian furniture sets the tone for each room along with a gas fireplace and soaking tub, terry robes and fantastic views. There are three restaurants, a fully-stocked library, and a 5,000 square foot, full-service European spa. Here you can be pampered, primped, and massaged until your cares float away in elegant splendor.
The Bully Ranch is one of three restaurants at the Sonnenalp and features casual American and Southwestern family dining. A local favorite, they offer a variety of domestic and international beers as well as the popular Mudslide, a concoction made with vodka, Kahlúa and Baileys’ Irish Cream.
There are many affordable packages available at the Sonnenalp, including the Spa Dream package, Ultimate Golf, and the KidVentures program. Check their website or call them for more details.
The Lodge at Vail is currently the only property in Vail that is a member of the Preferred Hotels and Resorts Worldwide. This combined with a Mobile Four-Star Award ensures that your stay will be a memorable experience. There are 165 guest rooms, including 79 intimate guestrooms that come with marble baths and views of the mountains or Vail Village. There are also 44 suites with one to three bedrooms equipped with full kitchens, living rooms, fireplaces, and walkout balconies.
There are two restaurants on the premises, including the Wildflower, rated the number one restaurant in Vail and one of the top ten restaurants in Colorado by the prestigious Zagat Guide. It is also the only Mobil Four Star rated restaurant in Vail Village and has received the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Hand-painted murals and overflowing baskets of brilliant flora abound and add to the bright, colorful ambiance. Meats, seafood, and produce are flown in daily to ensure freshness and quality. Popular dishes include the grilled Colorado lamb T-bone with butternut squash, potatoes gnocchi, and sage-brown butter. Or if you like fish, then let your taste buds explore the green peppercorn and herb-crusted swordfish with spinach sherry juice.
Named after a beautiful flower, Larkspur has been called “the best restaurant in Vail Valley” by Wine Spectator Magazine in 2000. Larkspur serves contemporary American cuisine with style, flair, and creativity. The menu and prices can change daily to ensure use of the finest quality ingredients. For lunch try the lobster rocket (arugula) sandwich with applewood-smoked bacon and cottage chips. To start your dinner, you can choose from hundreds of bottles of wines that are prominently displayed behind a large glass partition. Then you can progress to any number of gourmet entrees such as curried wild king salmon or beef tenderloin tartar. Larkspur is located at the base of Vail Mountain and right next to chair lift six. This is a great spot for an après-ski dinner with friends or just a romantic evening with your loved one in front of the large stone fireplace.
Vail is a relatively new city, being only 40 years old, and it is not a city content to stand still and live off its reputation. A multi-million dollar renovation is planned for the Lionhead Business Center. This will add new retail shops, lodging, restaurants, and possibly a new ski gondola. For those looking for an authentic Rocky Mountain experience, Vail will certainly satisfy. While movie stars can be found lingering in upscale restaurants or retail shops, this is a place for everyone to enjoy. Here you can breathe clean fresh air, partake in any number of outdoor activities, or just relax and enjoy all of the amenities that this town has to offer. Certainly, the warmth of the sun is smiling on Vail.
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Modeled after a European-style alpine ski village, Vail is divided into two main areas: Lionshead and Vail Village. These pedestrian centers offer over 300 retail, lodging, and dining opportunities that will fit every budget. During the shoulder or value season from October through November, many restaurants offer half price and two-for-one meals.
My wife and I decided to try the Hummer tour with
Lakota Guides. The open-topped HUM-V is quite an amazing machine. Our tour guide took us to the high country to witness the glorious change of seasons along a steep, winding dirt road. At times it seemed that this vehicle could climb up a wall, and our driver had the ability to raise or lower the tire pressure at will, depending upon the terrain. This is a great tour for anyone who loves nature and
would like the chance to see wildlife up close and in its natural habitat. Although we didn’t see any elk or deer on our trip, my wife did spot a huge owl glaring at her from between the leaves of a tree. 
There are two restaurants on the premises, including the Wildflower, rated the number one restaurant in Vail and one of the top ten restaurants in Colorado by the prestigious Zagat Guide. It is also the only Mobil Four Star rated restaurant in Vail Village and has received the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Hand-painted murals and overflowing baskets of brilliant flora abound and add to the bright, colorful ambiance. Meats, seafood, and produce are flown in daily to ensure freshness and quality. Popular dishes include the grilled Colorado lamb T-bone with butternut squash, potatoes gnocchi, and sage-brown butter. Or if you like fish, then let your taste buds explore the green peppercorn and herb-crusted swordfish with spinach sherry juice.