Samaria Gorge

Story and Photos by Keith Kellett

I've never been to Arizona , but, according to the tourist blurb, I've been to the Grand Canyon six times! I've been to Gordale Scar, which has been described as ‘Yorkshire's Grand Canyon', the Cheddar Gorge (England's Grand Canyon), the Gorge de Verdon (France's Grand Canyon), Wadi Moujib (Jordan's Grand Canyon), Avgas Gorge (the Grand Canyon of Cyprus) and, only last month, the Grand Canyon of Europe … the Samaria Gorge, on the Greek island of Crete.

Of course, none of these come anywhere near the size of the original article. Samaria is the longest gorge in Europe, although it's only 18 km. long. But, it's 18 km. of pretty serious walking.

You can walk the gorge by joining one of the tours operated by the many tour companies and hotels on the island. But, you can usually find a cheaper deal at one of the travel agents, whose offices can be found in many of the resort towns. Independent travellers can catch the ordinary KTEL service bus to Omalos, at the start of the walk. You can only get from Ayia Roumeli, at the mouth of the gorge, and the end of the walk by boat, but you can get a bus back to your start point from either of the ports to which the boat will take you.

The tour is probably the best option. The guide often leaves an hour or so after everyone else, and carries a radio and first aid kit, in case of need. He or she will also arrange to meet clients at the other end, to issue boat tickets. That's another way of checking that 'all is safely gathered in'!

Most people start is at Ksiloscalo (Wooden Steps) where you need to buy a ticket to enter the gorge. You have to show this at the other end; the authorities' way of checking everyone is out of the park by nightfall.

The Wooden Steps is (or, should that be 'are'?) really a steep, stony path which leads through the pine and cedar woods to the floor of the gorge. They told us that, if we decided not to do the walk after all, we could turn back at the foot of the steps. But, to continue the walk seemed a less daunting prospect than the climb back up to the start. And, that climb is probably the reason most people who walk the gorge prefer the downhill route!

The track follows the river-bank for most of the length of the gorge. The river itself is clear and potable, but the bone-white boulders in its bed gave some idea of the force with which it can flow in the wet season … naturally, the gorge is closed at this time. And, if you don't want to drink from the river, there are seven springs at which to refill your water-bottle.

I ate my lunch in the tree-shaded plateia or village square of Samaria , about halfway down the gorge. But, this village is overgrown and ruinous, its inhabitants moved out over 40 years ago, when the area became a National Park. However, there's a Ranger station here. The Ranger comes up the gorge from Ayia Roumeli by donkey. And this is the way you go out if you can't walk!

The Iron Gates, so called because of the iron in the rocks, which turns them a distinctive red colour, are the beginning of the end of the walk. It's the narrowest part of the gorge, barely a hundred metres wide at its narrowest point. We began to meet people who had taken the easy option of a short out-and-return walk from Ayia Roumeli.

We came into Ayia Roumeli with nearly three hours to kill before our boat left for Souyia, where our bus awaited. And, there's not much to do … ten minutes to walk around the town (if you can still walk!), check out the beach, and that's it. But, there do seem to be more cafés and bars than houses, so you can get something to eat or drink.

Maybe you're already thinking about what to do next. I'm planning to visit Australia next year … and there are six claimants to the title of ‘Australia 's Grand Canyon' that I know of! Or, maybe, one day, I'll get around to visiting the original!