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Long Beach, CA

The quintessential southern California city

Story and photos by Ron Stern

Long Beach is the Golden State’s fifth largest community and has been dubbed "the most livable city in southern California." Located just 25 minutes south of Los Angeles International Airport, Long Beach has recently undergone a transformation and has much to offer the intrepid traveler.

Lighthouse ParkLocated on the Pacific Ocean, Long Beach is rich in cultural history and attractions. The Queen Mary, Aquarium of the Pacific, Convention Center, museums, beaches, restaurants and first-class hotels are all within close proximity of each other. An easy-to-use color-coded transit system called "The Passport" makes getting around town a breeze, and what is even better, it’s free.

Long-time residents are proud of their diverse cultural heritage and are actively promoting tourism. The city even won the "most beautiful float by a noncommercial sponsor" in the 2002 Rose Parade. Their entry, called "A Day in the Park," is representative of the more than 75 community parks around the area.

Long Beach has one of the largest harbor areas in California. Not surprisingly, there are water sport activities galore, including a high-speed catamaran to Catalina Island known as Catalina Express. This trip takes only 40 minutes and costs $36 round trip. Carnival Cruise Lines has just signed a deal to make use of the abandoned Spruce Goose terminal. Soon you will be able to enjoy all the sights of this beautiful city and take a cruise to Mexico or other destinations without having to drive long distances. There are aqua taxis that will take you to different points around Long Beach harbor, kayaking and 5.5 miles of sandy beaches to enjoy.

"Long Beach is the quintessential southern California city," says Bob MaGuglin, PR director of the Convention and Visitors Bureau. "It’s at the center of southern California lifestyle, offering world-class attractions like the Queen Mary and the Aquarium. And we’re at the center of other attractions located nearby like Disneyland and Universal Studios."

Shoreline VillageYou can’t help but notice the clean and pleasant waterfront area known as Rainbow Harbor. Walkways make for pleasant strolling and offer wonderful views of the Queen Mary, Lighthouse Park and Shoreline Village. One of the more unusual accommodations can be found at the Dockside Boat and Bed. Here you can spend the night on a yacht and have all the comforts of home right on the water. They will even bring you breakfast right to your cabin in the morning.

I chose to stay on a real Chinese “junk” known as the Mei Wen Ti, which means “no problem.” Built in China, this is the only authentic Chinese junk on the West Coast. I was surprised by how roomy it was inside; there was enough space to comfortably sleep four. There was a shower, kitchen and sitting room with TV, stereo and VCR. The staff at the Dockside go out of their way to make you feel comfortable. You will even find a mint on your pillow at night. The cost for such a stay is comparable to many traditional B&B’s, which run between $175 and $300. None of those, however, will lull you to sleep with gentle rocking and the sights and sounds of the ocean.

Aquarium of the PacificIn the morning I took a tour of the Aquarium of the Pacific. Although I have been to other aquariums, this one was one of the best I have ever seen. Upon entering, you will be awed by a huge replica of a blue whale suspended from the ceiling. More than 80 feet in length, this behemoth is one of the largest animals that ever lived on the planet. Other attractions include the special jellies exhibit, which finds the odd translucent "jellyfish" floating gracefully in the water, and the Lorikeet Forest, where colorful birds eat right out of your hands. However, it's the unsual and rare sea dragon that steals the show. Being one of the few aquariums that have figured out how to breed these relatives of the sea horse makes them the envy of the aquarium world. The sea dragon looks more like a plant than a conscient, self-aware creature, and has to be seen to be believed. Don’t miss your chance to see one up close -- if you can distinguish them them from the weeds, that is. Tickets for the aquarium run $9.95 for children, $13.95 for seniors and $16.95 for general admission.

Located within the borders of Long Beach are many smaller communities just begging to be explored. A mile from Ocean Boulevard is the bustling seaside town of Belmont Shore, known for its excellent shopping and outdoor dining. A short distance from Belmont is Naples Island, an upscale neighborhood where Italian-style gondoliers offer romantic cruises along miles of canals that crisscross the area.

Mei Wen TiCloser to the center of downtown Long Beach lies Pine Avenue. There you can find an assortment of specialty retail shops including more than a dozen restaurants to satisfy every craving. Nightlife is just as abundant and you can dance the night away in any number of establishments. For seafood lovers, I recommend King's Fish House, located at Pine and Broadway. With more than 11 restaurants throughout southern California, King's has been listed in the prestigious Zagat's Guide and has received the “Hot Concepts Award” from Nations Restaurant News. The clam chowder was some of the best I have ever tasted. The clams were tender and fresh blended with bacon, celery and real cream. The Chilean sea bass with teriyaki and sesame seeds was moist, flavorful and garnished with green onions and vegetables. If you like crème brulée but are never quite satisfied with the meager portions served at most restaurants, try the one here that was more than enough for two. One of the secrets of King's is its ability to serve 13 or 14 kinds of fresh fish everyday. Owning a fish distribution company and having people onsite at 2 a.m. allows them to take first pick of the day’s catch even before some famous Las Vegas restaurants. As General Manager Tommy O’Conner puts it, "We’re an all-American fish house. Everyone can find something they like."

The Queen Mary is a Long Beach icon and not to be missed. More than 1,000 feet in length and weighing in at 81,000 tons, this massive ship is twice the size of the Titanic. You can stay in one of her 365 rooms, including nine suites. A self-guided tour gives you a real appreciation for the history of this vessel. Massive engines, electronics and a huge visible propeller are a sight to behold. The Queen Mary was called "the ship of beautiful woods" due to the use of over 52 varieties of wood, some of which are now extinct. Fine examples of art-deco paintings and architecture can be seen throughout the ship.

During World War II, the Queen Mary was pressed into service as a troop transport, and Winston Churchill made it his seaborne headquarters. Painted a dull gray color and dubbed the “Gray Ghost,” a bounty was put on the Queen Mary by enemy subs but she always managed to out-maneuver would-be attackers and never suffered a mishap. The last voyage of the Queen Mary brought her into Long Beach Harbor to be retired from active service. The final issue of the on-board bulletin, dated December 8, 1967, offered the following poignant summary of the life of this great ship:

“To Round the Horn” we’ve oft been told
Was fraught with danger and fear
And many a sailor rued the day
He sailed those waters drear.

But our Queen Mary steamed in pride
The treacherous passage o’er
Past straits that bear Magellan’s name
Past Fuego’s rain swept shore.

Full soon will Long Beach be her home.
No more will wild sea winds call.
The pride of 2 continents now she’ll be.
“The Mary” -- the queen of them all!
 


Contact Information
Long Beach Area Convention and Visitors Bureau
http://www.golongbeach.org


Dockside Boat and Bed
http://www.boatandbed.com

Aquarium of the Pacific
http://www.aquariumofpacific.org

Queen Mary
http://www.queenmary.com


King's Fish House
100 West Broadway
562-432-7463