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Jordan: Crossroad of the Middle East

Ask about Jordan and the Middle East is always referenced. Jordan is, in fact, the middle of the Middle East, where, according to archeologists, the three major religions started. The Muslim, Christian and Jewish religions have the deepest roots here, as evidenced by archeological finds that keep cropping up after every rainstorm or whenever the river overflows and moves old earth.

Landing at Queen Alia Airport and heading, first for a hotel in Amman, visitors quickly note that Jordan's most populated and biggest city, is dotted with ancient landmarks that mingle with the modern white limestone buildings. Standing above Amman is Jordan's Archeological Museum. Outside the museum are ancient citadel remains that provide an almost endless panoramic view of the white Limestone City. In the midst of all Amman's city is an ancient coliseum, at home among the modern houses. After leaving the citadel and walking inside the starkly contrasted modern museum the most startling find are Dead Sea Scrolls and the vases in which they were found. Every other display pales by comparison.

The first meal is at Kan Zaman, a 19th century stone-walled estate that has been renovated into restaurant, traditional artisan's shops and crafts center. The expansive estate's floors and walls are made of rough beige stones gathered from the area. Here the first real Jordanian meal is served. Like most restaurants, food is served buffet style, with a table of extensive traditional salads, another with main courses and yet another with desserts. But, be forewarned: Jordanians have a sweet tooth, and you will not leave this country without having at least one full dessert every night. Sometimes it's best to start at the dessert table. Umm-Ali, a bread pudding, will become an instant hit. A week-long Umm-Ali search begins that very night. Every buffet except one serves the after-dinner dish that originated in Egypt - so there is only one night of disappointment. That lasts for less than a second, since there are also a host of other choices. Chocolate mousse, various small cakes, flaky pastry filled with honey, pistachio and coconut are more than enough to satisfy anyone.

The first course salads are a meal in itself - and some days it really is enough. There are at last 10 different types of salads on the buffet table every night, including: Baba Ganuj, with it's tomatoes, eggplant, onion and spices; falafel, a wonderful mixture of fava beans, chick peas, garlic, coriander and pepper; humus, made of chickpea, salt, lemon and Tahini; and cucumber and yogurt salad are only just a few offerings. Main dishes consist of rice, spice or savory. Rice dishes are either combined with chicken or lamb or served separately with a curry or other sauce. Lamb kabobs served at Kan Zaman are unforgettable - and, though they are served in other places, do not match the first tender bits of consumed there.

Food, albeit important, only holds a backseat to the wonders in this country.

Jerash, just 48 kilometers north of Amman and situated in a quiet valley among the Gilead mountains. With paved streets, temple facades, stone gates, public squares, and a remarkable ancient theater, it is one of the largest and most well-reserved sites of Roman Architecture. With a year-long supply of water, and a comfortable altitude of 500 meters, archeologists found ruins of a settlement that they say date to the Neolithic age, indicating occupation for thousands of years. The first historical reference to Jerash dates to the early 1st century and is attributed to Josephus, a historian from the Holy Land. In the 4th century BC or during Alexander the Great's time, Jerash developed into a large town. It is a blend of the Greco-Roman world blended with the ancient traditions Arabia. The name Jerash, Gerasa or Garshu, reflects the interaction. Arabic occupants named the village Garshu, Romans:Gerasa, and at the end of the 19th century it was renamed Jerash by Jordan.

From history's first mention to today, Jerash is filled with a rich history that has repeatedly changed cultures and civilizations that include Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Omayyad, and Neolithic. The ancient city is now preserved by the government. RACE or Roman Army and Chariot Experience, will, for the first time in more than a thousand years, recreate a "Roman Army" of men who will replicate the chariot races that occurred in the Jerash hippodrome. The hippodrome, already in good condition, is undergoing even more renovations. A few weeks ago men from all over Jordan, geared with shields and wooden swords, practiced Roman marching and battle techniques they will start unveiling in May. A stable of approximately 20 and chariots, costumed men, and commentary, will provide visitors with a daily glimpse of what Roman Gerasa citizens experienced nearly two-thousand years ago.

Further south in Jordan is the Dead Sea, thought to be the site of five biblical cities: Sodom and Gomorrah, Admah, Zeboiim and Zoar. Today, however, the Dead Sea is known for its calm tranquil shores, sunshine and healing waters. Located on the eastern coast of Jordan, the Dead Sea is the lowest spot on earth at 410 meters below sea level.

There are only two hotels at the Dead Sea, The Marriott Jordan Valley Dead Sea Resort and Spa and the Movenpick. Both offer a great view of the water as well as distant view of Israeli Mountains and the City of Jericho. At dusk lights slowly come to life and glisten in Jerusalem. It is truly a spectacular sight.

The air around the Dead Sea is said to carry 15% more oxygen and the filtered rays of the sun prevent easy burning. Nine times saltier than the Mediterranean, the composition of the water includes chloride, magnesium, sodium, potassium and bromine, making it impossible to sink. Swimmers may float along reading a book or just relaxing. Many have claimed the waters and its mud offer healing from a number health and skin problems.

The mud, along with the salts, can be purchased at the gift shop or in any number of locations around the country. It is used as a mask for the face or entire body. Once slathered with the slippery wet dirt, one must let the mud dry and then wash it off in the Dead Sea. Results - softer glowing skin. Most visitors cram suitcases with Dead Sea products - forgetting to leave room for clothing.

Traveling south along Highway 15 leads visitors to the Lost City of Petra. Words alone can't do justice to the majesty and beauty of this ancient city, literally carved out of red sandstone.

Located in Jordan, Petra was built by the Nabataeans, who, it is believed, came from the Arabian Peninsula more than 2200 years ago. Located within its borders are looming royal temples, tombs with ornate facades and even an outdoor theater. The Siq, a 1200 meter long gorge brings visitors from a shadowy canyon to the Al-Khazneh, also known as the Treasury. Chiseled by hand into the stone mountain in the first century as a monument to a Nabataean king, its large rose-colored columns and statues loom high and are breathtaking. This was the location used in the movie, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

 

Other impressive sites in Petra included the Street of Facades: rows of tombs with intricate carvings; the Urn Tomb, which is the largest of the royal tombs and also has a huge courtyard; a theater that seats up to 7000 people; and finally, the Ad-Deir Monastery. The latter can only be reached by climbing 800 stairs but the effort, albeit 45 minutes, is worth it. Used as a temple, tomb or both, the Ad-Deir has an impressive architectural design similar to the Al Khazneh. There is also a refreshment stand at the top, most appealing after a hard, uphill walk.

Earthquakes and varying trade routes gradually left Petra abandoned except for Bedouins that frequented the area. Today, however, you don't have to travel all the way to Jordan to get a glimpse of life in this beautiful city. Starting April 4, Calvin College in Grand Rapids Michigan will be hosting an exhibition called Experience Petra that will include 200 objects on loan from public and private collections. The exhibition runs though August 15 at the Prince Conference Center. Visit their website at www.calvin.edu/petra for more.

Resources

Marriott Amman
http://marriott.com/property/propertypage.mi?marshaCode=AMMJR

Marriott Jordan Valley Resort and Spa at the Dead Sea
http://marriott.com/property/propertypage.mi?marshaCode=QMDJV

Marriott Petra
http://marriott.com/property/propertypage.mi?marshaCode=MPQMC

Visit Jordan
www.seejordan.org

Bethany beyond the Jordan
www.baptismsite.com

Jerash Charitots
www.jerashchariots.com

Petra Exhibit at Calvin College
www.calvin.edu/petra