Glenwood Springs

Historical Oasis in the Rocky Mountains

Story and photos by Ron and Nancy Stern

Nestled midway between the mountain communities of Vail and Grand Junction lies the charming little town of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. Just 2.5 hours west of Denver, this city is rich in history, natural beauty, and healthy living. Home to the world’s largest outdoor mineral hot springs, it was given the name of Yampah, meaning “big medicine,” by the Ute Indians. They believed that the healing waters made them better hunters. Today, the springs attract people from all over the world who “take the waters” to relax or to improve their health. I overheard the story of one man who came here every year for the condition scleroderma. It was said that the springs extended his life for another 10 years. Maybe it has something to do with the content of the waters rich in 17 minerals and originating from a spring producing a daily flow of over 3,500,000 gallons. There are two pools which are kept at temperatures of 90 and 104 degees Fahrenheit-- just the cure to melt away those aches and pains from shopping, skiing, and sightseeing around town. The cost for a daily pass is $9.50 for adults and $6.25 for children, ages 3-12 years.

Just across the street from the hot springs is the Hotel Colorado. Operating for more than 100 years, this historic marvel has been home to both the famous and infamous. In 1905 it served as the “Little White House of the United States” when Theodore Roosevelt came for a bear-hunting trip. Legend has it that after an unsuccessful day of trying to bag a bear, the hotel maids decided to cheer up the depressed President. They stitched together a small bear out of scraps of cloth and placed it on his pillow.  Upon seeing the cute little creation, a reporter dubbed it  “Teddy Bear.”  It didn’t take long for the name to catch on and the rest, as they say, is history.

Besides visiting presidents like Roosevelt and Taft, the Colorado Hotel had other famous guests. Tom Mix, the actor, stayed there as did Diamond Jim Brady, the Mayo Brothers, and one less than respectable gangster by the name of Al Capone. I was told that since he was always concerned about his safety, he arranged for the hotel to build him his own secret entrance and exit (right), should the authorities come knocking. While known for his ruthlessness when dealing with his enemies, Capone also had a charming side. One story says that after arranging for a bellman to procure him some banned gin, he gave the boy a tip—enough money to put him through college!

Among past guests are those who don’t seem to want to leave. Like many older hotels, this one has its assortment of benevolent spirits. Some have claimed they have smelled whiffs of cigar smoke allegedly belonging to the founder of the hotel, Mr. Walter Devereax. Others have seen a young girl bouncing a red ball or detected the fragrance of perfume with no one around. Perhaps just the result of overactive imaginations, the Hotel Colorado’s many stories are just waiting to be discovered by travelers with a thirst for history of an era gone by.

There are currently 128 refurbished rooms, a top quality restaurant, health club, and meeting rooms. This would also be a wonderful location for weddings and family reunions.

Located a stone’s throw from the Hotel Colorado are the Yampah Spa and Vapor Caves. These geothermal steam baths are the only natural vapor caves in North America. The hot mineral waters flow through the cave floors at 125 degrees Fahrenheit, creating steam that will invigorate and purify both body and soul. The spa portion offers such services as facials, massages, and Jacuzzi baths. The price of the vapor caves is $8.75 or $7.00 with any other spa treatment.

Speaking of caves, no trip to this area would be complete without a visit to the Glenwood Caverns and historic Fairy Caves. Discovered by accident in the 1880’s, the Fairy Caves were dubbed by Charles Darrow as the “Eighth Wonder of the World” alongside the pyramids of Egypt and the Colossus of Rhodes. Although the details are sketchy as to how the caves derived their name, it may have been because the fishtail-like formations on the roof of the caverns reminded Darrow of fairy wings. These were the first caves in the world to be illuminated by electricity.

World War I abruptly put an end to public tours and the caves remained closed until 1999 when the new owners once again reopened them. The current tours include new sections of the caverns including “The Barn,” a five-story room with unusual crystalline formations and stalactites. The guided two-hour family tour is available from April through October. Tickets are $12 for adults and $7 for children, ages 3-12.  For those who truly want a unique caving experience, a $50  “wild tour” is offered. This lets you explore remote sections of the caverns the old-fashioned way—with just headlamps, kneepads, and your courage.

Two Rivers Park is another sight that is important to the people of Glenwood Springs.  Located towards the west end of the city, this park affords you a good look at Storm King Mountain where 14 firefighters died on July 6, 1994. Caught by a flash fire running up the ridge behind them, these brave men and women were unable to outrun the firestorm that took their lives.  A touching sculpture memorial commemorates their heroism in the center of the park (right).

Grand Avenue is one of the main thoroughfares through town and taking this road will eventually lead you to Aspen. But, before you pack up your ski boots, take the time to explore some of the wonderful nooks and crannies that this city has to offer. Start by paying a visit to the Glenwood Springs Chamber Resort Association located at 1102 Grand Avenue. They have a wealth of information and literature on the sights and background of the area. There is a walking tour guide that lets you go back in time, and stroll the streets with history on every block. One of these innocuous streets has a trailhead sign that reads “Pioneer Cemetery.”  A brisk half-mile walk up a serious incline will lead you to a graveyard and the final resting place of Doc Holliday. Friend of Wyatt Earp and survivor of the OK Corral gunfight, Holliday came to Glenwood Springs in hopes that the waters could cure his consumption (tuberculosis).  Unfortunately, his disease got the better of him and he died at the Glenwood Hotel in November 1887. Although nobody really knows the exact location of his grave in the cemetery, a headstone marker with his name remains one of the most popular attractions of this area.

If all this hiking and sightseeing makes you hungry then you are in luck. Glenwood Springs has food for every budget and palate. We had a wonderful lunch at Juicy Lucy’s on 7^th Street. They specialize in steaks for a very reasonable price, and mine was tender and flavorful. My wife had a rotisserie chicken sandwich that came with a great salad. I am always interested in restaurants that cater to locals and I was told that Juicy Lucy’s is a town favorite.

For dinner that night we headed to the “Italian Underground.”  Somehow Italian restaurants with red and white-checkered tablecloths always make me feel I am in for a good meal, and I wasn’t disappointed.  My simple spaghetti with meat sauce was delicious. Entrees also come with salad and oven-hot baked bread with garlic butter and finish with ice cream. Prices for most dinners are in the modest $10-12 range and worth the money.

On our last day in Glenwood, my wife was craving Mexican food, but with about five or six restaurants to choose from, it was hard to decide. We were steered by some locals to the Fiesta Guadalajara that was just across the street from the Hotel Colorado. The first thing I noticed was that the owner Carlos Sanchez greets you personally and takes care of you like you were in his own “casa.”  The menu was quite varied, and he explained that his family owns three other restaurants in Colorado as well as one in Guadalajara. When I asked why his food was different from any others in the area he just smiled and said to try it for myself. I had the chicken tacos with rice and beans and can honesty say they were among the best I have ever had.  The beans were creamy and the rice was moist and not too spicy. For dessert, try the flan with strawberry sauce—fantastic. When you visit Fiesta Guadalajara, say hello to Carlos and tell him that Ron sent you.

If you are looking for a great Colorado getaway that is not hard to reach, then put Glenwood Springs on the top of your list. It is easily accessible by freeway and even by Amtrak that stops right in the center of town. It will certainly be a place that you and your family will want to visit year after year.

Contact information:

Glenwood Springs Chamber Resort Association

1102 Grand Avenue, Glenwood Springs (970) 945 6589
http://www.glenwoodchamber.com

Hot Springs Lodge and Pool

(970) 945 6571
www.hotspringspool.com

Hotel Colorado

526 Pine Street, Glenwood Springs (800) 544 3998

www.hotelcolorado.com

Yampah Spa and Vapor Caves

709 E. 6^th Street, Glenwood Springs (970) 945 0667
www.yampahspa.com

Glenwood Caverns and Fairy Caves

508 Pine Street, Glenwood Springs (800) 530 1635

www.glenwoodcaverns.com

Fiesta Guadalajara

503 Pine Street, Glenwood Springs (970) 947-1670

Carlos Sanchez- owner

RMA Travel and Tours

(package tours and rail from Denver to Glenwood)

(800) 841-9800