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Ephesus

Story and photos by Keith Kellett

‘And he came to Ephesus, and left them there …’ Acts 18:19

When St. Paul came to Ephesus after the death of Christ, it was a thriving seaport on the Aegean Sea, and an ideal place from which to spread the Christian word. It’s said that St. John was here, too, and brought with him Mary, the mother of Jesus, who had been given into his charge by Jesus at the Crucifixion. She had a house near Ephesus, the purported remains of which is now a Catholic church, and a place of pilgrimage.

Ephesus used to stand in a wide bay, at the mouth of the River Caister, but is now several miles inland due to silting, and is in ruins, contributed to by frequent earthquakes. However, what remains has, in recent years, been reinforced against such an eventuality.

The line of Ephesus still remains, and can easily be explored by visitors to modern Turkey. If the visitors are part of an organised tour, they may well have called at the remains of the Temple of Artemis, and at the house of the Virgin Mary. What’s remarkable is that the Turkish guides, who are usually Muslims, believe not only that Mary existed, but that this was her house.

It’s said that Ephesus was first founded by the ferocious female warriors, the Amazons. When the Athenians arrived, they’re supposed to have been guided by a fish, a wild boar and several soothsayers … who should really be told to say their sooth elsewhere, for the city they established changed location several times, before being finally abandoned in the 7th Century AD.

The city is laid out in a narrow canyon, which formerly led down to the sea. And, if your guide really likes you, he’ll start at the top, and work his way to the old harbour.

So far, they’ve managed to identify such edifying places as the brothel and the signs showing the way there – pictograms, so sailors who couldn’t read the language of the city could find there way there. And the public latrine – only men were allowed in; the ladies, presumably, had to hold it till they got home! There was a use for the ‘nastiness’ (as the Scots call it) too. It was a source of uric acid used in tanning leather.

But, for more discerning visitors, there’s the Fountain of Trajan, the Temple of Hadrian – didn’t he get around? So far, we’ve visited his Gates in Athens and the Jordanian city of Jerash, and, of course, his Wall kept the hairy-legged kilted ones out of England!

The most imposing buildings in Ephesus were raised by noted citizens of Ephesus. The son of a worthy inhabitant named Celsus said ‘Let there be a library’ and there was a library. Right on Papa’s grave! That was a headstone and a half! Was it maybe modelled on the Treasury on Petra? I did note a similarity between the two.

The Gate of Mazeus and Mithradates in close proximity to the Library of Celsus, and are still largely intact. The gates lead into the Agora, where most of the business of the city was carried out. The usual translation is ‘market place’, but it also served as a stock exchange – sometimes, workmen plied for hire, and slaves were bought and sold here too.

The main entertainment was, of course, the open-air theatre, which could accommodate an audience of 25,000, and is still occasionally used. Greeks and Romans had different ideas on how drama should be presented, and the theatre was laid out to accommodate both. And, if the show was boring, there was the view down Harbour Street, to the docks and the sea, where there was usually something happening.

But, nowadays, the view is of Harbour Street and the valley!

Usually, the place is thronging with visitors, who come to see the wonders of Ancient Greece and Rome. But, it should be remembered that Ephesus was a city, not a villa or temple; you need strong shoes and plenty of water.

Resources:
www.kusadasi.net/historical/ephesus.htm

www.tourismturkey.org

Tours which include visits to Ephesus can be arranged by most travel agents, hotels and tour companies, including:

Fez Travel: www.fezbus.co.uk

IAH Tours: www.iah-holidays.com

NES Travel: www.nestravel.com