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Winter in Maryland’s Appalachia – or Reality Skiing
Within driving distance of many East Coast and upper Midwest communities lies this under-discovered and relatively secluded resort area – a massive yet cozy vacation community nestled in the natural mountain heritage of the Appalachians. While seemingly out of place atop the gentle ridges and far below any regions with natural lakes, an enterprising plan to build a dam across a mountain stream in the '60s while no one was looking resulted in what is now a premier natural resource destination and a prime family retreat for many non-Maryland metropolitan areas as well.
Winter here revolves around the Wisp ski resort known not only for its premium winter activities but for the convenient ski-side and value conscious rooms. Many also enjoy the numerous and cozy lodges, condos and townhouse rentals around the area – some units are even for sale for the truly committed. In addition to regionally surreal skiing conditions consisting of over 100 inches of fluffy snowfall annually, Wisp has a surprising variety of trails for its size, a full service lodge, rental facilities and instructional staff. The Don’t forget to ask about special events such as March’s Annual Beachin Weekend and Total Tubular Tubing Party as well as packages and specials such as group activities and the Wisp discount card. Real-time webcam views of the ski areas are very cool at www.wispresort.com/wisp/info/w.webcam.aspx. For something different try Nordic skiing or my favorite – the mountain coaster. Picture a cross between a gravity powered go kart and roller coaster with no skills required.
But what if skiing is not your thing you ask? No, you are not a scrooge and it is not a problem because this is the perfect place to either learn (see sidebar) or enjoy other winter opportunities not even thought about. To start, a premium tubing area is available at Wisp with unexpectedly vast and fast undulating slides that will please the grownups as well as the kids. Another favorite - and a rush for newbies - is to have the skilled Wisp staff provide guided snowmobile excursions and demonstrate that this is no more difficult than riding a bike – and it is fun, fun, fun - rev it up and be adventurous.
A sleigh ride through the woods cannot be beat followed by an opportunity to mingle with and pet the very friendly tykes in their kennel area while being told about their varied delightfully quirky and intricate personality traits. Some wry humor abounds as demonstrated by the lone doghouse among the numerous others labeled Husband - indicative of the under appreciated male partner of the business illustrated by the manner in which the female host kept him on his toes while describing the ins and outs of dog sledding and preparing for the ride. Make sure to allot adequate time and winter dress including insulated boots because for some reason, the lecture part of the experience required an hour and half of standing motionless outdoors before any sleigh ride causing a bit of foot numbness.
Reality Skiing A common misperception is that skiing is difficult to learn, only best done in one’s younger years and expensive lessons are required. I am living proof that this is incorrect because I never touched a ski until I was 40 and am now a competent intermediate skier of 54 (gahh!). Some insider and less publicized tips to get started very quickly. If skiing like those on TV is not (and should not be) a requirement, the learning curve is very fast. Accept falling ahead of time and do not care - advanced skiers continuously do but also know it is actually fun since the snow is a cushion against any discomfort.
To start, someone will need to demonstrate how to fasten ski boots and skis together and how to handle the equipment. If a friend cannot do this, have one professional lesson to start. The first thing they should teach is how to stand back up after a fall which is not difficult but may not be self evident for the first time. This is also the time for some guidance on how to utilize the conveyor belt and ski lift chairs effectively and safely. Beginner ones are slow and are not a big deal.
Only a little core body strength is necessary to get started and more will develop – this is good exercise that is not over challenging at intervals. Start on the very beginner shallow slope served by a conveyor belt to get up to the top. These are barely hills and you will not speed up out of control. After that, move to chair lifts that serve slopes marked with green circles only – these are beginner and longer versions of the previous one. All trails are marked as green circles, blue squares (intermediate), diamonds or double diamonds (advanced). This is the most important: overcome the desire to instinctively want to stand erect and even lean back a bit when moving forward on the skis for the first time. In fact, while counter intuitive, bending your knees a bit and leaning forward will actually be easier as this actually allows greater control over ski speed and direction and is therefore the single most effective accomplishment in learning. For me, once I mastered that, everything else followed. Do not at anytime feel your skies must be parallel and pointing straight forward. That is advanced skiing and many rarely do that. Feel free to point the front tips inward a bit in a V which is not only the recommended technique and makes turning easier but the more the V, the slower you go which is the common beginner way of controlling your speed. Turning on skis is easy when relaxed. Again, be counter intuitive and do not attempt to turn your skis by consciously trying to lead them with your foot position in the direction you want go. Rather – this is critical but easy - lean and put your weight over the ski outside of the turn. For example if turning left, put your weight over the right ski and visa versa. Skis are constructed with special flexible and curved edges that automatically turn when such pressures are applied. At this point your are skiing – albeit rudimentarily. After trying that a bit, refine and improve the technique by adding a slight pressure on the inside edge of the outside ski during the turn. As you progress, the turns can further be refined at faster speeds by bobbing up a bit during the turn to make yourself lighter for an instant while furtherer pushing a bit on your skis down and out on the inside edge. This will almost come naturally from repetition and the associated higher comfort lever. Repeat and repeat again – have fun and do not worry about looking good or doing well – every single person on that slope was a beginner at one time. Finally, lessons are not mandatory (but suggested for improvement) to have fun and never think you have to go fast to do it well. IF YOU GO: A good starting point for all things Deep Creek is Garrett County Chamber of Commerce www.garrettchamber.com. Upon arrival, stop by also at 15 Visitors Center Drive, McHenry if they are open. Sign up for their comprehensive one-stop-shop guide at www.garrettchamber.com/mailme.php Also useful is http://deepcreekresort.com/activity_guide.htm http://deepcreekresort.com/search.asp
Where to Stay: The above will have accommodation and reservation links to many options – the below are my suggestions. Wisp Deep Creek Mountain Resort www.wispresort.com, 800-462-9477 A very slick and effective website for all things winter – and summer – including changing ski and winter activity specials and events. If this is also where you are staying then this can be your one-stop-shop for everything including superior quality restaurants and spa. Suites at Silver Tree 565 Glendale Road, Oakland, MD 21550, 800-711-1719 In a nutshell, if you are going to do this, do it right and go for the gold and value. Choices for waterfront seclusion include lodges, cottages and condos. Where to Eat Numerous excellent opportunities abound – most are meat and potatoes fare and I cannot truly locate any establishment that is mediocre. The following though stand out. Traders Coffee House www.traderscoffeehouse.com, 301 387 9246 My favorite spot for breakfast and daytime snacking is a sensibly priced and cozy gathering place with a neat menu as well as gelato, beer and wine, crafts, books and giftware and even WiFi. Little Sandy’s Intersection of Sand Flat Road and MD Rt. 219, 301 387 0850 Pay attention as you go by because it is easy to miss this true country diner that is at home with the locals as well as visitors and has meat and potatoes breakfast and lunch fare when all you want to do is eat at the best price in some seclusion. Cornish Manor 830 Memorial Drive, Oakland, 301-334-6499 An excellent quality restaurant near Oakland in a B&B style building with varied menu. Great for Sunday brunch as well as an upper scale lounge with entertainment. Sweetwater Grill at the Inn, 301-387-5555 Part of a popular lodge, I had understood this to be a favorite restaurant for many from word of mouth but alas it was closed on the Sunday we were there. The scenery is spectacular on the lake especially at sunset. Contacts and other activities to try for something different in the area Smiley's FunZone Husky Power Dog Sledding Deep Creek Lake State Park www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/deepcreeklake.html Oakland This is the County seat with interesting historic areas. Circle R Ranch Horseback Riding, 301-387-6890 This is definitely another new thing to try if not too cold. Buggy and Sleigh Rides www.pleasantvalleydreamrides.com A
massive Clydesdale horse will
pull you over hill and dale while
the Amish proprietor regales with
local lore and wit.
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After all, at the close of my last summer oriented feature, I challenged the reader - and myself - to visit during a future ski season to fully appreciate what this winter oasis had to offer and the mountain ski resort of Wisp truly is a destination for all seasons. While the familiar lake of summer is frozen and overpowered by the lakeside mountain, Wisp admittedly does not have the biggest ski slopes around but being right in the middle of the continental divide provides an altitude where the powdery and deep snow familiar to New England is found close to many cities farther south – unlike other accessible resorts in the area which frequently predominate in slush and ice.
expanded and unprecedented choices of children’s programs, recently expanded 10 trail area, Pipes, Rail Parks, Terrain Trails, upgraded premium rental fleets, an extensive renovation of the Resort Hotel and Conference Center and soon-to-be mountaintop self contained village round this out as a premium value for the family.
For a fantastic lakefront view, seclusion and all the comforts, my favorite place to stay is the Suites at Silver Tree known for both summer and winter quality accommodation. In a mountain lodge style with timber cathedral lobby ceilings, this elegant retreat is centrally located to all regional points of interest with a plethora of quality room choices varying in decor, size and amenity from studio to separate bedrooms and lofts. Enjoy the restaurant, sauna and fitness facilities and if staying during the summer, a marina and waterfront swimming is included. Do not forget to inquire about its ski packages and discounts.
The grand prize for something different in the category of non-traditional winter activity goes to dog sledding. That’s right - relatively new to those in this part of the country, this should not be missed. Husky Power Dog Sledding provided an interesting and new educational experience hosted by an enterprising couple running the operation at their country residence who will teach everything about the husky dog breed – or sled dogs, their care, and the tradition of canine winter transportation.
Eventually, warming up indoors at the end of the day is vital and welcome but take a break from the fireplaces at Suites at Silver Tree or the Wisp lodge and try the lakeside Uno's restaurant with a couple of after-dinner drinks at the adjacent Honi Honi bar. A more hi-tech, stimulating and down right fun experience can be found at Smiley's FunZone – the ultimate arcade and game park of the western mid-Atlantic - my favorite was the laser tag. This is a great opportunity for a tech fix for kids but all of you should take a break at their excellent restaurant to rest.
The first skis should be rentals available at the ski lodge where you also pay for your lift ticket and the staff will adjust the equipment to your height and skill level. In case of a fall, the skis automatically disengage from the ski boots at the slighted force so there is no way to injure your feet or legs. Keep the lift ticket visible and attached to your ski jacket so as to allow the staff to check for compliance.
If an acquaintance can get you upright and moving forward, then many can instruct themselves to a rudimentary level of competence (no falling) on the beginner slopes.