Hiking Through Paradise: Croatia’s Plitvice National Park

Story and Photos by Dawnelle Salant

You’ve seen waterfalls. You’ve seen lakes. You’ve seen the incredible blues of the Caribbean Sea. But have you ever seen them all in one place? Inland? Not unless you have been to Plitvice National Park in Croatia. Many people visit this Eastern European country to explore the wealth of stunning coastline on the Adriatic, but if you’re after something a little different, Plitvice should be on the top of your list.

I was lucky enough to have a Croatian friend meet me on arrival in the capital city of Zagreb and plan my entire four day trip for me. As much as I love arranging what to see and how to get there, sometimes it’s just as nice to step off the plane and have locals show you around their country. In fact, had I not been writing to Gordana, my Croatian pen-pal, for 14 years, I might have overlooked the country completely. As it turns out, I was pleasantly surprised, and will definitely be returning in the future.

I guess I had some misconceptions about the country, especially since Gordana wrote some of her letters from a bomb shelter during air raids in the early nineties. But what I found was a beautifully green, open and clean country. Although Croatia has a population of less than 5 million, it has so many places worth visiting.

One of Croatia’s highlights would have to be Plitvice. I’ve been to many National Parks on my travels and enjoyed all of them, but this one took my breath away and left a lasting impression. It really is nature at its finest; fresh air and scenery that rivals the best of National Geographic.

Plitvice National Park is home to sixteen fresh water lakes and endless waterfalls. A hike through the forest starts at the top of a hill, from where you can see a series of lakes situated on various levels of the mountainside. As if that’s not a beautiful enough sight on its own, the lakes are constantly being filled by a chain of powerful waterfalls. The white water cascades down the gray rock into pools of still, blue water. A path winds its way down the hill to the base of one of the bigger falls.

As we get closer, we’re covered in a fine spray and deafened by the sound of the roaring water. Standing at the base of a waterfall is a moving experience. Surrounded by the beauty of nature, and a reminder of its powers, left me with a feeling of both peace and awe.

Walking farther down the path brings us to several small lakes and a tiny cave hidden in the rock. Climbing up and into the cave provides a welcome respite from the heat, and a new perspective on the fresh water lakes. Next, we walk across a wooden bridge separating two lakes. One of the lakes sits higher on a hill. A waterfall fed by this lake flows under the bridge into the lower lake.

The water in the lakes is so clear that you can easily see the bottom. In some places, the water is so still that you have to touch it to believe that it is actually there. But the most magnificent part of this natural phenomenon has to be the different shades of blue that the water reflects. I have only ever seen similar shades in the Caribbean Sea, on secluded white sand beaches. Here, the water sparkles of turquoise and blue so pure that you immediately think that the color has been plucked out of a child’s set of Crayola paints and poured into the lake.

Just when you think you have never seen anything more beautiful, you turn the corner and see a different shade of blue, but this time thrashing and whirling around at the base of a waterfall. Next to the intense green of the forest, the colors and sounds provide a striking, yet relaxing environment, enough to make you feel that you have left this world for somewhere better. It’s truly unbelievable.

After walking through more of the park’s glorious scenery, we arrive at a restaurant. Refueled after lunch, we board a ferry which takes us across a huge lake to a different region of the park. Here, the waterfalls are smaller, but just as breathtaking. Yellow flowers punctuate the forest’s deep green. White water runs down rock banks partly covered by moss and grass into yet another lake. We walk over a section of stepping stones, perfectly aligned for crossing the shallow water. All too soon, the journey is over and we’re on the shuttle bus back to the entrance. I don’t think we saw nearly enough of the Park’s 300 square kilometers in one day. I’ll just have to go back.

Plitvice National Park is open year round. I went in the summer, but I imagine that the scenery takes on a whole new kind of beauty when it’s covered with snow. The Park has two restaurants and several snack establishments. Staying in the Park is also possible – Plitvice has three hotels and a campsite. We drove to Plitvice from Zagreb in about two hours. If you don’t have a car, buses leave from Zagreb Bus Terminal.

Useful sites

http://www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/

http://lacroatie.free.fr/croatia/np/plitvice.php

www.croatia.hr

Accomodation

http://www.apartments-plitvice.com/