Boomer Babes Do Little Italy!

Story and Photos by Kate Mahar

On the very special days when the weather gods smile on Cleveland , you get the kind of day we enjoyed on a visit Little Italy last summer: sunshine, a warm breeze, and a sky as brilliant as the blue in the robe of the Madonna.

Belissima!

Speaking of the Madonna, and with no disrespect intended, the group visiting Little Italy that gorgeous Saturday was composed of “mamas” of a certain age – five women who talked all at once and sometimes laughed a little too boisterously for polite company. I affectionately call these dear friends the “Boomer Babes.”

Our objective was to eat and shop. Or, shop and eat, depending on who you asked. Little Italy is one of the most delightful places in Cleveland to achieve both of these goals.

Italian-born Joseph Carrabelli settled the neighborhood around 1880. The sculptor opened his granite and marble works on Mayfield Rd., and was soon joined by other Italians in the building and stone trade. Located just east of the city, not far from the once-regal mansions of “Millionaire's Row” on Euclid Avenue and the growing arts enclave of University Circle, Little Italy became home-away-from-home for many Italians building new lives in Northeastern Ohio.

Today, the stretch of Mayfield Rd. south of Euclid Avenue, and the cross street of Murray Hill, are home to some of Cleveland's favorite Italian restaurants and a wealth of galleries and shops with everything from massive sculptures to handmade chocolates.

On that fine summer day, the Boomer Babes got together for a “lunch crawl,” starting with appetizers and an aperitif at La Dolce Vita. The handsome young server, Patrick, would not have looked out of place in any ristorante in Siena or Florence . Though Patrick confessed to being half Irish, his recommendations were 100% Italian – and completely delicious. Two types of bruschetta, one topped with avocado and tomato and the other with artichokes, spinach and cheese, and Portobello mushrooms gently sautéed in olive oil, were accompanied by a bottle of refreshingly fizzy Moscati d'Asti.

La Dolce Vita, located on the corner of Mayfield and Murray Hill, was originally “The Italian Drug,” a Belle Epoque edifice built by Dr. Anthony Caruso in 1914. The bistro features live entertainment on weekends and special live opera dinners in the cooler months.

Our first shopping destination was a delightfully eclectic store called La Bella Vita, just around the corner on Murray Hill Rd. (Translated, the restaurant and shop are “The Sweet Life” and the “The Beautiful Life,” respectively.)

And beautiful it is. La Bella Vita was originally a house, and each of its rooms is bursting with delectable Italian imports and one-of-a-kind treasures made by local craftsmen. We found whimsically embellished hand bags, hand painted silk scarves, cheerfully decorated Tuscan dinnerware, table linens that beg to be stroked, and oh, so much more. The owners are as charming as their wares, and be forewarned that the “talking deer” with a crazy quilt of men's ties festooned from its antlers may shock you with a lively greeting as you enter the shop!

Across the street and just a little further up the hill, Little Italy's old redbrick schoolhouse is now a delightful warren of shops and artists' galleries filling the renovated space. Two of the our favorite stores were Anne van Hauwaert Fashion Design and Juma Gallery, which are side by side on the first floor of the building.

While Juma has a small selection of unique apparel, its jewelry, pottery and even pieces of furniture are what draw the eye and tempt the pocketbook first. A display of ceramic pots of every size and shape reminded us of the shiny, mahogany buckeyes we played with as kids – so smooth, shiny, and irresistible to the touch. A gossamer scarf in green was dotted with clusters of fine brown leather discs, connected with embroidered “twigs.”

Anne van Hauwaert is all about women's clothing and accessories – and you know you won't run into your neighbor or anyone else wearing the same thing that you buy from this fabulous shop. The Boomer Babes loved a flowered trench coat that would be perfect for the heroine to wear in an “Austin Powers” movie, shoes that looked like they were magically created from plastic crazy-string-in-a-can, handbags fashioned from vintage record album covers, and, well, just about everything else in this gem of a store.

Unfortunately, the galleries in the schoolhouse were mostly closed and are not necessarily open as regularly and predictably as the area's retail establishments. For those who definitely want to see the paintings, prints, sculpture, etc., created by local artists working in Little Italy, the best bet is to visit on a weekend of an Art Walk (held several times a year) or during other special events that take place periodically in the neighborhood.

But, don't forget to look for more galleries and shops back on the “main drag,” Mayfield Road . You can view and purchase luscious photos at Scaravilli Design & Gallery as well as visit Galleria Gianna, Patricia's Italian Gold, Pennello Gallery, the Mayfield Smoke House (for handmade chocolates and cigars), and much more.

The Babes took a break for their lunch entrees (and a little more wine) at the Trattoria on Mayfield. This is a traditional Italian restaurant with lasagna, hot meatball subs, ravioli, and so on – all very much like mama might make for Sunday dinner at home.

After a stop to pick up some of that delicious Moscati d'Asti to take home, and to browse through the excellent wine selections at Little Italy Wines & Baskets, the group finished with cappuccinos and dessert at Presti's Bakery & Café. Little Italy boasts two mouthwatering bakeries, Presti's and Corbo's, and in either one the biggest problem is trying to decide what your indulgence will be.

On that warm summer day, two of us chose a homemade gelato, which was as vibrantly flavored as any we'd sampled in Italy . We also sampled cannoli dipped in chocolate, moist almond cookies, and individually baked “turtle” cheesecakes with a topping of caramel, chocolate and pecans.

It was nearly time for dinner as we hugged each other goodbye and called out “ciao!” – trundling off to our cars, laden with wine, bakery boxes of cannoli, and an assortment of memorable purchases. We were tired, happy – and looking forward to our next date for lunch and shopping in Little Italy.

There are a couple of good websites to learn more about Little Italy and the businesses in the neighborhood. Visit www.littleitalycleveland.com for good, basic information, including dates for the Art Walks, festivals, and other special events, as well as a link to get driving directions. Another local website, www.cleveland.com , provides additional information about Little Italy, as well as other attractions in the Cleveland area.

Although we most recently visited in the summer, I have enjoyed the Art Walk in early December to look for memorable holiday gifts. Little Italy is always a joyful destination, any time of year.

In addition to the restaurants and shops mentioned here, there is a veritable Italian smorgasbord of places to eat, shop and visit in this exciting Cleveland neighborhood. For those coming from out of town to visit for the weekend, additional entertainment can be found just blocks away in University Circle, the home of the Cleveland Orchestra at Severance Hall, and the renowned Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland Natural History Museum, and more. There are great theater productions at Playhouse Square , and at the Cleveland Playhouse. And certainly, adding a visit to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame will definitely bring back fond memories for Boomer Babes everywhere!