A Beginner’s Guide to Eating in China

Story and Photos by James Edward Dillard

There might not be a better place in the world to travel right now than to China . The history is second to none and the traditional architecture is like an oasis in a desert of classical European replications. The cities are modern, the people are nice and the exchange rate is fabulous. Plus, for the time being at least, if you want it for cheap, whether “it” is silk, pearls or a faux Chanel handbag, you can get it in China … even if “it” isn't exactly legal in the strictest sense of the word.

But one sticky issue still surrounds, or rather sustains, the Great Dragon of the East: the food. All of us have heard the horror stories: chicken feet, bear claw, donkey and even dog meat. But before you cancel your trip to the 2008 Olympics for fear of the entrées, know that hope is on the horizon.

Essentially, the food problem is really two fold. There is an underlying issue of culture, which makes a dog kabob sickening to us but succulent to the Chinese. We see Old Yeller; they see a steak. But, on top of these small differences, there is a sea of confusion about what is being ordered. Few menus have translations; even fewer have descriptions. Plenty have pictures, but the experienced traveler quickly learns exactly how useless pictures of foreign dishes are. Chinese food is made to be eaten with chopsticks – that means all of the food is finely diced, making it easier to pick up (imagine how much trouble it would be to eat a chicken breast with the sticks). An unfortunate side effect of this is that all of the pictures look vaguely the same: diced meat with vegetables and sauce. This confusion leads to fear, causing some to seek refuge in western-style Chinese restaurants, with translated menus (many of which still lack descriptions), plenty of napkins and English speaking staff, where they overpay for sub par food. They're choosing culture over cuisine, safety over the satisfaction of a great meal. But at last, there is hope.

In the heart of Beijing , a company called YBZG is setting out to clear the ambiguity for all the English speakers who set their eyes to the East, whether they are businessmen seeking their fortune or travelers seeking adventure. Their goal, ambitious to say the least, is to provide a standard of clarity for all of China 's menus. In a way, they're modern Marco Polos, opening up the riches of the East to the people of the West, but instead of silk, tea and precious stones, they offer travelers a taste of Chinese cuisine beyond that of Gong Bao Ji Ding (or as we know it, Kung Pao Chicken). Despite being incorporated just a month ago, they've already translated over 40,000 menu items into clear, appetizing English in a standard manner, meaning that the same characters give the same translation every time.

They haven't reached the whole city yet, but they're gearing up to reach a critical mass of restaurants before the Olympics begin in 2008, when Beijing is supposed to swell by 12 million people – 7 million of whom will be foreigners, most of whom won't speak or read any Chinese. In the mean time, here are some traditional dishes YBZG suggests you try during your next trip to China , complete with characters, pinyin (Chinese phonetic spelling) and a description.

Shish Kabobs :: yang rou chuan ::

These aren't your parents' shish kabobs. These old Beijing favorites are strips of meat (Lamb or Chicken, usually) skewered and roasted over an open flame. Once finished, they're rolled in an assortment of spices and passed on to the customer. They're cheap (1 RMB or less – the equivalent of 13 cents in the US ), quick and tasty. Groups will frequently order fifty or more to go with rice and other dishes. Beware of street vendors, especially in the summer – make sure they cook the meat all the way through.

Dumplings :: jiao zi ::

The dumplings in China are so good they need an article to themselves, but here's a quick introduction. There are three major types: dumplings, steamed buns and potstickers (fried dumplings). The dumplings (jiaozi) are filled with anything your heart desires, from lamb to seafood. Steamed buns (baozi) are dough buns filled with meat, usually pork, or green vegetables. Potstickers are dumplings, filled with pork and pan-fried.

Green Beans with pork :: gan bian si ji dou ::

Remember when you had to sit at the table until the green beans were gone? Those days wouldn't have existed if these had been the green beans. Cooked by dry frying, a technique that uses the least amount of oil necessary to keep the beans from sticking to the pan, this is one of the hidden treasures of Chinese cuisine. The beans are given some extra taste by adding bits of pork and a small amount of pepper. This popular dish can be found at just about any restaurant in China – be sure to try it before you leave.

Bamboo Shoots :: qing chao zhu sun ::

Not just for pandas, bamboo shoots are made by dry frying the shoots with pork, peppers and the Chinese pepper-flower hua jiao. Hua jiao, found in many Sichuan foods excites your taste buds, allowing you to fully experience all the different flavors of the dish. At the same time, too much of the hua jiao deadens your taste buds, which may be intentional, since Sichuan food is known for being spicy.

Ants Climbing a Tree :: mai yi shang shu ::

On a poorly translated menu, this would be a dish you'd probably avoid. Like many Chinese foods, however, this dish is named poetically, not literally, sort of like a submarine isn't literally a submersible war machine. This dish, cooked in oil, is made with vermicelli noodles sprinkled with pork and spicy peppers and it is definitely a Chinese favorite.

Crispy Rice with a seafood sauce :: hai xian guo ba ::

You can't leave China without eating your fair share of rice, but when you get bored with white rice and fried rice try crispy rice. Matter of fact, you might just want to start with the crispy rice. This dish is made by baking the rice into a thick layer, then pouring soup over it as it sizzles. The dish is made to be eaten quickly, sort of like cereal, so that it doesn't get soggy. Crispy rice with a seafood soup – fish or squid – is especially tasty, but you can usually get soups with vegetables and chicken if that's your preference.

Other YBZG Tips

1. Keep an eye on the menus. Foreign-friendly restaurants frequently have an English menu and a menu for locals. The vast majority of China 's 1.3 billion people are honest, loyal and caring but occasionally the unscrupulous among them will choose to post higher prices on foreign-friendly menus. The best defense against this is common sense – if prices seem outrageously high for the quality of restaurant you're in, ask questions about the dishes and make a decision from there. Should the menu be Chinese only, you're secure, but be sure to keep a mental tab on what you bought and what it costs, since you probably won't be able to read the receipt. If your really nervous, then make some Chinese friends – they're easy to find, eager to speak English and extremely loyal.

2. Look before you bite. In China , duck and chicken commonly get cut straight through – bones and all – so don't be shocked to find a surprise in your food, especially if it's sliced. Diced dishes such as Gong Bao Ji Ding are cut differently so they don't have this problem.

3. Don't be afraid to call your server. You'll have to waive your hand at the fu wu yuan (waitress) to get them to come to your table – it's not rude, it's their custom. In higher end restaurants this usually isn't necessary, but don't expect your server to bring you your check – you'll have to ask for it.

4. China is really big. In the Western world we frequently assume that Chinese food is Chinese food is Chinese food but that's not quite true. Each region has its own cuisine, like New England , Texas and the South have all developed their own food personalities. In China , there are eight different cuisines and four major tastes. It is said that there are four predominant tastes in Chinese food that come from Shandong , Guangdong , Sichuan , and Henan . Be sure to explore them all and notice how they are different from each other.

5. Order dishes for others. In China , it's a good idea. to buy one more dish than the number of people in your group. Most restaurants serve their portions family style, so learn to share with your travel party. In larger parties, it can be hard to let everyone pick something since most restaurants only give you one menu, so try using a group leader – especially if they know some Chinese.

6. Sea Cucumber isn't a vegetable – it's a slug. Another common menu misnomer is Saliva Chicken, which isn't spit upon, but is considered tasty enough to make you salivate. The only full proof way to avoid these problems is to become a Chinese scholar. Since most of us don't have that much time, it's better to use the family style dinners as an opportunity to experiment. If you take a chance on something and don't like it, there'll still plenty of other food on the table.

7. Drinks with dinner: Ordering a Western wine with food is difficult because of all the complex flavors in the food – Western wine simply doesn't pair as well as it does with Western dishes. Try a sweet drink like Sprite, Coke or a juice instead. Sweet wines like German Gewurtzraminer or Canadian Ice Wines also pair quite well.

8. Put your napkin in you lap – if they give you one. If you aren't an expert with chop sticks, your food is going to be prone to dripping, squirting or slipping on its way from the plate to your mouth. This means you'll probably end up with some stains on your shorts if you aren't careful. Napkins are in short supply and aren't always given out before the meal, but don't be afraid to ask for them. Your fu wu yuan will be happy to bring them for you. If you really want to be safe, eat the Chinese way: move your chair back away from the table and bend over towards your food. If you spill, it'll fall safely onto the table.