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Chesapeake StayStory and Photos by Andrew Der
The Maryland State Park system affords some of the best and under-appreciated opportunities of such enriching weekend getaways like no other. My other stories on similar destinations have revealed these nearby havens of rest and relaxation to be not only prime Appalachian retreats in the west but exemplary opportunities to experience Maryland’s – and the Eastern seaboard’s - Chesapeake Bay heritage of waterman, oysters and crabs in the east. About three hours from the Washington, DC/Baltimore, MD area and nestled on the Bay side of Maryland’s Atlantic shore next to the crabbing industry communities of rural Somerset County, Jane’s Island State Park The best way to experience this region and its rare natural resources is to immerse your self in it - and staying at this park is just the ticket. This bayfront retreat among pine forests and salt marshes is truly one of nature’s best kept secrets and allows one to enjoy the outdoors and the comforts of small town amenities as well. Camping is popular and the cabins are your best bet. Make no mistake, while isolated, this natural haven is a full service facility with over a hundred campsites (49 with electrical hookup), bath houses with hot water showers, five primitive cabins, a conference/retreat facility and four full service year round cabins with bathrooms, kitchens and electricity.
For the uninitiated, sign up for a guided kayak lesson and tour with Tangier Sound Outfitters. My kids (eleven-year old son and nine-year old daughter), their mom and I found this to be much easier and more fun than a canoe and their expert guides will quickly make you feel like you are Lewis and
Considered by many to be the nation’s crab and seafood capital, this community can trace its waterman ancestry back to English settlers. Today, the Somers Cove Marina and City Dock – a popular East Coast boating destination - area marks the site of the community’s first fishing village and beds of discarded oyster shells serve as the foundation for much of the waterfront buildings. Self-guided walking tours are the best way to enjoy Crisfield’s history, shops, historic buildings and festivals (try the Crab Derby in the summer) - start at the Crisfield Historical Museum and Visitor’s Center.
Do not leave without visiting the water-locked and wondrous Crisfield “suburb” of Smith Island – Maryland’s only inhabited island. Where a reliable boat is far more valuable than a car, this tranquil island community of 350 waterman families is only accessible by one of Crisfield’s commuter boats and is best described as a visit through a dimensional warp to a simple and quiet life of generations ago. Any of the few vehicles present are conspicuously absent of license plates and any upkeep as they are more of a convenience than a necessity. Composed of three communities, the Island population directly descends from early 1700’s British colonists and some even have subtle relic accents. A popular Island destination is to take a ferry from Crisfield’s City Dock to the “town” of Ewell - golf carts and bicycles are the desirable modes of mechanized mobility. Arrival by passenger ferry is evident by the abrupt interruption of salt marsh shorelines with waterside crab shacks giving way to the community pier. The hub of what constitutes a Only when it is time to go home, will you realize the hold and fascination this unique slice of American culture and history had on Mr. Michener. CONTACTS Good general information about the region and lodging if camping at the park is not your forte: Somerset County Tourism
Crisfield & Smith Island Cultural Alliance, Inc. The on-line reservation capability of the park system is slick as duck poop:
Jane’s Island State Park For the best in kayaking and the full moon paddles, go to:
Eating: Most restaurants in Crisfield and Smith Island are worthy and specialize in the region’s shellfish and finfish fare. The site http://skipjack.net/le_shore/visitsomerset/eateries.html lists many. I recommend Cove Restaurant at 718 Broadway (intersection of Eighth Street), Crisfield, 410 968 9532. |
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JustSayGO Travel Show
The Milky Way and a full lunar eclipse are actually visible on the same night. The ability of the natural star light and the rapidly waning moon to flood the vast expanses of Maryland’s woods and wetlands with the intensity of a street lamp astounded those of us who did not realize the prevalence of urban lighting in our lives as well as the ability of the human eye to adjust to what nature had intended. How silly flashlights seemed at the moment while vegetation swayed in the nocturnal glow with no other sounds than chilly breeze on the leaves. The scene appeared similar to the faked and poor quality filming of old movie scenes in underexposed daylight to mimic nighttime as a special 
welcomes anyone into the world of James Michener’s Chesapeake.
Hiking, crabbing, fishing, the nature center and play areas are, of course, immensely popular but a prime alternative activity here is kayaking. Strewn with numerous well-marked water trails, no other area I know offers this level of a quality kayak experience. Beginners and experts alike will enjoy the quite glasslike tidal waters among the wetlands that give up nature’s secrets with little cajoling. Do not be surprised to see terrapins, waterfowl, osprey, eagles, mammals, and a multitude of shellfish in the flats.
Clark. Quickly and easily navigate the quiet trails – with or without a guide – just remember the tides so you don’t paddle against them. Smaller children are best paired with a parent in a tandem kayak while my son turned out to be a natural in a kayak on his own. A little known and very hot tip is to sign up for their moonlight paddle tour and discover the quiet and nocturnal wilderness of a marsh by moonlight - a favorite relaxation technique is simply walking or sitting near the water after dark. If insects are intimidating, stay here in the early spring or late fall. Those of you at one with the cold might even appreciate the solitude of a winter stay.
A complete Chesapeake Bay experience includes not only water-oriented recreation and resource appreciation but also knowing the culture and history built on the Bay’s staple natural resource industries – crabbing and oystering. The life of those who plied these rich waters was not easy and prospered only when these prized crustaceans were plentiful. One of the richest examples of the shellfish industry-based communities and the primary cultural experience in the region is the rich and unique history of Crisfield and nearby Smith Island.
A favorite activity is watching the fishing boats returning and unloading their catch at the waterfront. While some go to retail outlets, others go to shedding and processing houses where crabs are monitored for molting to pack them in their soft shell stage and trained crabmeat pickers will pack cooked meet into containers at a speed you wish you had. Finish off your exploration with the freshest seafood dining around. The specialties are, of course, crabs and oysters (months with “R”s only).
Law enforcement consists of a weekly visit by the sheriff and, while a small elementary school serves the Island, the sparse population of older kids relies on a tax-funded school boat in lieu of a school bus to get to middle and high school.
