Basel, Switzerland — Improving with Age

Story and Photos by Ron Stern

Basel, while very much a cosmopolitan city, has managed to maintain much of its medieval charm in its architecture and culture, making it an alluring European travel destination. Switzerland's third largest city is sophisticated yet unpretentious with trendy shops, quirky museums and cozy dining spots, all easily accessible by foot, train or tram.

Straddling the Rhine River, Basel is divided into Grossbasel (Greater Basel) on the south bank and Kleinbasel (Lesser Basel) on the north. Basel has been an important city from its early days as a Roman settlement to the Protestant Reformation in the 1500s. Although an earthquake destroyed much of the city in 1536, good examples of early architecture still remain. One of these is the Munster Cathedral whose Romanesque red sandstone steeples tower majestically over the city.

Meandering streets reveal much of Basel's early days where tradesman made their living from small shops in the various quarters. Today, well-lit windows showcase everything from wine to chocolate to clothing as well as some wonderful bakeries where the smell of freshly baked bread makes it nearly impossible to pass by without sampling.

The Swiss Franc (CHF) is the national currency here and a mere 20 CHF will get you a full 3-course meal with as much wine and water as you desire. I had a fabulous lunch that included salad, an entrée, bread and wine at Acqua, a former water pumping station that has been converted into a hip eatery.

Getting around Basel is also effortless. Trams whisk passengers up and down main streets but, as I found out, you have to pay attention, as they seem to come out of nowhere. Tram and bus information is available at every stop, allowing you to hop on and off as you explore the city. A combined Swiss rail and museum pass allow you to visit any of Basel's museums as well as use its extensive rail system.

The John Tinguely Museum provides a whimsical glimpse into one of Switzerland's famous postmodern artists whose genius was in creating kinetic machines out of ordinary pieces of metal, plastic and other materials. Another interesting excursion is to the Vitra Design Museum, which lies just across the border in Weil-Am-Rhein, Germany. The Vitra houses one of the world's largest collections of modern furniture by some of the world's great designers.

Basel's close proximity to other countries makes it an ideal base from which to take day trips. A narrow hall is all that connects the Swiss and French train stations that will take you to many interesting destinations. I chose to visit the charming town of Colmar in France and after a short, one-hour ride, found myself transported back in time to a beautiful city filled with colorful trees, flowers and, of course, shops. After sampling crepes, chocolate, cheese, and fruit from an outdoor market I found a spot along one of the many streets to do some people watching.

It is truly amazing that you can visit Germany and France from Basel, all of which are in close proximity. One of Basel's notable distinctions is its Dreiländereck or Three Countries Corner, where you can stand on the converging borders of Switzerland, Germany and France.

Basel is a safe city, and even at night, crowds of young and old wander the brightly lit streets in search of food, shopping, espresso, or entertainment. I happened to be visiting in November when, each year, Avo Cigars sponsors a major musical event known as Avo Session. This year featured Miriam Makeba, who wowed the crowd with music from her home country of South Africa.

As I watched a ferryman transport some passengers across the Rhine, I thought about all of the rich history that is associated with a city like Basel. You can definitely feel it as you wander through its streets, talk with the people and take the time to visit its cultural sites. This is a city that, not unlike its wine, gets better with age.

If You Go

Getting There:

American Airlines (www.aa.com)

With flights to NYC, American's business and first class service is impeccable and worth the extra cost.

Swiss International Airlines (www.swiss.com)

Direct flights to Zurich from NYC. 69 destinations worldwide. Business class service offers large, comfortable reclining seats and a delicious menu of meals and wines.

Getting Around

Swiss Travel System (www.swisstravelsystem.ch) offers a wide range of tickets and passes and the Swiss Pass also allows holders free admission to more than 400 museums (www.museums.ch) as well as a 50% discount on mountain top trains and cable cars.

Where to Stay

Les Trois Rois (The Three Kings)*****
(www.lestroisrois.com)

One of the city's oldest luxury hotels, centrally located with great views, beautifully appointed rooms and amenities.

Hotel Victoria****
(www.balehotels.ch)
Located right near the train station, this property is modern, comfortable and elegant.