Par for the Course in Ballybunion

Story by Katie McVay, Photos by John Binczak

The rain came down in buckets, but we were undeterred. So, too, were the golfers.

My husband John and I sought out the beach and golf resort of Ballybunion, Ireland, but not for reasons anyone might expect. Neither one of us are golf fans. And a chilly, wet September is definitely the wrong time of year for swimming. Rather, we were there for the amazing views of the Atlantic Ocean and for a certain bronze statue.

Ballybunion is located in the extreme northwest tip of County Kerry, on the west coast where the Shannon River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Millions of Irish people flood the area every year, mostly to escape the hustle and pollution associated with larger industrial cities. (Limerick is a short drive north and the touristy Killarney is 35 miles south.) Rugged terrain (including an extensive sand dune system) spreads out over miles of coastline, where the beaches are pollution-free and the water is creature-friendly. Seagulls, cormorants, herons and other migratory birds can frequently be seen nesting and foraging for food. Other marine animals may also be spotted, like sea otters, seals and dolphins.

Ballybunion consistently wins The Blue Flag, an exclusive eco-label established by the non-profit Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE). It is awarded annually to beaches and marinas that achieve certain levels of water quality, and that are committed to environmental management and education.

But the real attraction is the golf club. It dates back to 1893, but fell into disrepair in its early years due to financial restraints. It emerged from oblivion in 1906 and officially became known as the Ballybunion Golf Club. Its reputation grew over the years, attracting golfers from around the world, until it was necessary, in 1971, to build a second course, named the Cashel Course. Together, the newer Cashel Course and the older Original Course make up this very prestigious-and very private-golf club.

Arriving in Style
We were greeted by wind gusts that made futile the use of an umbrella. We had driven the N69 southeast from Limerick, and arrived at Ballybunion via R551. The latter road is rather narrow and dusty, shrouded in foliage, and seems to wind on forever. But it finally opened up as we approached the town, with the wide expanse of the ocean plainly in sight. We had to continue through the town to reach the golf club, past quiet seaside guest accommodations, past tiny pubs and restaurants, until we could go east no further. Sure enough, we'd nearly reached the end of the line. Only then did we reach the golf club, and, some say, the greenest fairways in all the land.

Up close, and in spite of the rain, I could certainly see the attraction. From the clubhouse parking lot perched atop a hill next to the two courses, we saw astounding views of the ocean, the coastline, and beyond. For nature enthusiasts and the outdoorsy type, it is a feast for all the senses: the loud crash of the rough Atlantic surf as it pounds the beach; the layered contrast of bright green dunes buttressed up against the fleshy colored sand overlapped by white foam-tipped azure blue water; the crisp smell of salty sea air. With such a beautiful distraction, it's amazing that golfers are able play at all.

But oh, they do. We spied hearty golfers swinging and putting their hearts out, even through the torrential downpour. Stepping inside the lobby, we noticed several golfers filing in behind us, without so much as a sigh or a shake of their soggy overcoats. These were surely some diehard golf nuts. They simply congratulated each other on a game well played, and ducked around a corner to some secret destination that lay beyond the lobby.

I thought sure we'd find a gem or two here-evidence of its past, perhaps, or photos of famous golfers who've visited. Anything that might showcase what prompted golf writer Herbert Warren Wind to rank Ballybunion as one of the top ten golf courses in the world. Like how Ballybunion was the venue for many golf championships and tournaments, including the Irish Ladies Championship, the Irish Amateur Close Championship, the Irish Professional Championship and the World of Golf television series. We'd even settle for autographed pictures of Nick Price, Lee Trevino or Jack Nicklaus, famous golfers all.

And, of course, we were searching for the life-size bronze statue of former U.S. President Bill Clinton. He played a round or two here during his presidency in 1998. Ballybunion, Ireland is home to the only Bill Clinton statue in the world, and we were determined to find it.

Finally Getting Lucky
We stuck out like sore thumbs in our casual American dress. Golfers and staff members glanced at us quizzically (yet politely) as if to suggest we didn't belong. And, of course, we didn't. Par for the course, I guess, given the nature of the establishment. As such, we stuck around long enough to ask the front-desk clerk the location of the Bill Clinton statue, since it was neither outside nor inside the clubhouse as we had anticipated. The statue, we were told by a middle-aged woman with a high-pitched brogue, was in the center of town, several miles from the clubhouse, outside the Garda (police) station.

We did eventually find the Bill Clinton statue, precisely where the woman said it would be. Parking illegally, we rushed across the street in the rain to take a photograph. A few cars zipped past us, hardly noticing the two drenched tourists swathed like swamis. To them, we must have seemed so unimportant, just another face in the crowd. In a town where residents have undoubtedly seen their share of typical tourists and well-known and famous people alike, their nonchalance (just like rain in Ireland) is simply par for the course.