GLOBALFOODIE - November 2007

by Denise Dubé

DARK DINING…DARK DINING?

The other day I saw a television segment for a new trend called: “Dark Dining.” Right now it’s the rage in Beijing and France and involves the “art” of eating with blindfolds and bibs. No lights and no idea what you are eating. Worse still, patrons are lining up at the doors so they can be blindfolded and eat heaven knows what.

During the segment the television station ran pictures of people entering the restaurant in their finest attire. This was quickly hidden with airline-style blindfolds and plastic hairdresser bibs. The trusting guests tried to get forks to their mouths, intrepidly, I might add. It was a bit curious and would have been humorous if it wasn’t a serious new food experience.

Results were mixed the newscaster told us. Yeah, I’ll bet. Who thought of this idea, one that smacks of the “Pet Rock, ” a useless but cute item that was a huge sellout during its short-lived life span.

I’ve traveled around the world a few times and I’ll try any exotic cuisine. When it comes to my food, just tell me what I’m eating and I’ll pick up my fork and go to it. But Dark Dining? Uh, I don’t think so. Not for this woman who loves food far to much not to be able to see and enjoy the presentations.

No, I’m not going to try it in this lifetime. I like to see what I am eating. Never the most trusting soul, I want to see if there is something amiss in my food. Yes, that has happened on more than one occasion. I want to know someone hasn’t opened a can of dog food and nicely plated it on a fine piece of china. Of course, these are upscale places and I’m sure that hasn’t happened, but I want my eyesight just in case.

As a foodie, when I have see a plated dish I look for texture, presentation, color and plating construction before I start tasting. Most chefs will admit, plating is everything and adds to the ambiance, flavor and experience.

How in heaven’s name can decisions be made if there is no preconceived notion of sweet or sour, hot or cold, nutty or smooth? And the temperature of the dish is what worries me the most. An unexpected spoonful of steaming soup would have me ripping off the blindfold and bib and asking for the door.

Wine is served in the same manner. Pardon me, but every sommelier will tell you, color and clarity are part of the sensuality of wine. Why would someone waste an expensive bottle of white or red on a blindfolded patron?

The newscaster said there were waiters who stood by the table to explain and help you get the spoon, glass or fork to your mouth. I stopped needing help eating when I was about 8-months-old. Worse still, all the waiters had big smiles on their faces. The patrons did not. Wonder why? Who, I ask, was being entertained?

Yes, I’m confused. More importantly, I’m worried. Is this craze here to stay? Will others try it too? Will I be asked to try this trendy new eating style? Call me old fashioned, but I like to see what’s on the plate or in the glass.

There are so many creative ways to serve and experience food. Perhaps someone thought this was the ultimate new culinary style. I sure hope not.

Me, I think it’s a foolish waste of time and money. What’s next dining in the nude and blindfolded?

Write to Denise Dubé at globalfoodie@cs.com.
Website: http://www.globalfoodie.com/